Cake helped get us through the past year. It wasn’t something you made when you’d invited friends for tea – because nobody was coming for tea – it was just a source of comfort, of sweetness, for the family. Tarts and rice pudding can provide sweetness too, but there’s something about cakes. They’re soft but, unless you’re eating a whisked sponge, which is light and airy, you can get your teeth into them.
Pull a tin of cake from the shelf and you’ll be surprised by how weighty it is. When my youngest comes home from school, he will literally