When I was growing up, my mother’s hongshao chicken stew was a hallowed institution for me. But these days, instead of deferring to The Way It Was, I like to take inspiration from the resourceful spirit of the dish — how you can maximize the output of a single pot of delicious chicken by adding plenty of ingredients to cook with it. And it’s transformed the dish further and further from my early memories of it.
Maybe that’s because hongshao, a Chinese braising technique that translates to red-cooking or red-braising, invites variation. You can simmer any cut of pork, beef